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	<title>Comments on: new lens on my wish list</title>
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	<description>photo ramblings from a professional photographer</description>
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		<title>By: Jay</title>
		<link>http://dansaa.com/blog/archives/282/comment-page-1#comment-2100</link>
		<dc:creator>Jay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Oct 2009 08:46:23 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>hey, i was just surfing the web and came across your blog and noticed this post.  just thought i&#039;d share some insight..

i currently shoot a 40D and one of the lenses i have is a 16-35 ultra-wide and honestly, i say save your money and/or get a shorter lens if you REALLY need the wide-angle.  the 16-35mm isn&#039;t as effective of a wide-angle due to the 40D&#039;s 1.6 crop.  the results from a 16-35 would look more like a 26-57mm (respectively) on a 1.6 crop camera. to compare, from the shots that you have been taking it looks like you are fairing out fine without the 16-35mm ultra-wide.  in fact, i would most likely produce the exact same shots that you&#039;ve been taking with my 40D and my 16-35.  the wide-angle features on the 16-35 ultra-wide only becomes apparent when shooting with full-frame cameras (eg. 5D Mark II, 1Ds Mark III, etc.)

if you need something wide with a larger aperture, there are a few alternatives for a wide-angle. the $$ not an issue way, the 14mm 2.8L II USM lens is nice/sharp lens with little distortion/fish-eye effect that needs to be correctin post-processing -- with the 1.6 crop the 14mm will look more like a 23mm wide angle.  the cheaper way would be either getting: 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, 20mm f/2.8, a 15mm f/2.8 fisheye, Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5, Sigma 15mm f/2.8, or a Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 fisheye.  the solution for the fish-eye distortion would be to post-process using a distortion correction program like DxO.  the non-fisheye lenses would produce better results due to less correction.

just my $.02
sorry if that sounds confusing.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hey, i was just surfing the web and came across your blog and noticed this post.  just thought i&#8217;d share some insight..</p>
<p>i currently shoot a 40D and one of the lenses i have is a 16-35 ultra-wide and honestly, i say save your money and/or get a shorter lens if you REALLY need the wide-angle.  the 16-35mm isn&#8217;t as effective of a wide-angle due to the 40D&#8217;s 1.6 crop.  the results from a 16-35 would look more like a 26-57mm (respectively) on a 1.6 crop camera. to compare, from the shots that you have been taking it looks like you are fairing out fine without the 16-35mm ultra-wide.  in fact, i would most likely produce the exact same shots that you&#8217;ve been taking with my 40D and my 16-35.  the wide-angle features on the 16-35 ultra-wide only becomes apparent when shooting with full-frame cameras (eg. 5D Mark II, 1Ds Mark III, etc.)</p>
<p>if you need something wide with a larger aperture, there are a few alternatives for a wide-angle. the $$ not an issue way, the 14mm 2.8L II USM lens is nice/sharp lens with little distortion/fish-eye effect that needs to be correctin post-processing &#8212; with the 1.6 crop the 14mm will look more like a 23mm wide angle.  the cheaper way would be either getting: 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, 20mm f/2.8, a 15mm f/2.8 fisheye, Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5, Sigma 15mm f/2.8, or a Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 fisheye.  the solution for the fish-eye distortion would be to post-process using a distortion correction program like DxO.  the non-fisheye lenses would produce better results due to less correction.</p>
<p>just my $.02<br />
sorry if that sounds confusing.</p>
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		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://dansaa.com/blog/archives/282/comment-page-1#comment-1920</link>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 00:37:22 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>24 f/1.4L II mounted to a 1Ds Mk III.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>24 f/1.4L II mounted to a 1Ds Mk III.</p>
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